Hair Types & Brush Advice
We have about 100,000 hairs on our heads. Each hair shaft has 3 layers, with the cuticle, or outside layer, protecting the two inner layers. Genetics create our individual hair type but over a lifetime, the condition of your hair can change radically according to age, health, environment, temperature, psychological state of mind and exposure to chemical hair treatments.
It is important to use the correct hair brush and comb on your hair to maximise the benefits of that particular brush, and as with the rest of our bodies, hair is healthiest when we eat right, exercise and protect it.
Fine hair
Fine hair refers to the texture or size of the individual hair strand and people often complain that their hair is limp or lacks body, which makes holding a hairstyle virtually impossible, especially with high humidity. On a positive note, fine hair can also be smooth and shiny despite being annoyingly unmanageable! The brushes to use for styling need to give volume (KS45, KS49) and back combing will provide height (A21T). Don’t forget general brushing for continued health and shine, using a soft to medium strength bristle brush with a rubber cushion for comfort. (Ladies ST14, LS9D, DA4S, & Men’s OS11, NS06).
Medium Hair
This is the most ideal hair. It is shiny, well balanced and does not dry out, easy to maintain and style. Although most hair brushes can be used it is still a good idea to treat yourself to a medium to stiff bristle brush to use for traditional brushing as part of a daily care regime. For best results, tip your head forward and down and brush from the nape of the neck to the ends of the hair. Try it and enjoy a truly sensual head massage too. (Ladies LS7, LC22, ST6, Men’s MS11, OS10, MN1B, OE1)
Thick Hair
Thick hair can be double the size of a fine hair strand yet be as tricky for styling. Blow drying can also take twice as long so it is worth drying 80% of the moisture out of the hair before starting to use your hair brush to style (AirHedz 1, AirHedz 3, AirHedz 4, LPB1, KS30). Hold the dryer downwards to encourage the cuticles to lie flat and reflect the light, creating a sleeker finish. For daily brushing, use a very stiff bristle brush or one with added nylon quills. These protrude longer than the bristle to help penetrate through your hair deep down to the scalp.
Thin and receding hair
Thin hair has to do with the actual number of hairs on your scalp – the fewer hairs you have, the thinner your hair is. Receding hair is hair that is in the process of becoming sparser due to a variety of reasons, including heredity and age, trauma and hormonal changes. Despite this, it is still important to brush and we make a full range of hair brushes using a softer ‘cut’ of bristle which is gentler on the scalp. Our packaging is clearly marked ‘soft’. (Ladies LS9D, DA4S, Men’s MS23D, OS11)
Curly Hair
A strand of curly hair appears oval rather than circular as with straight hair, hence making curls. It’s different protein content also affects the condition, often leaving hair with a tendency to be drier, more brittle and prone to frizz.
Curly hair still has to be groomed to stop it becoming an uncontrollable frizzy mess. We suggest using a wide toothed comb and a good detangling brush (AirHedz 3, AirHedz 4) after washing to remove tangles, and then air dry unless straightening.
Dry Hair
Inactive oil glands, over exposure to sun and harsh chemical treatments result in dry hair – bristle hair brushes are the easiest way to help combat it. Select the bristle strength suited to your hair type and start brushing! This stimulates the hair follicles containing the sebaceous glands and encourages the flow of sebum which moisturizes and protects the hair. When hair is damaged, the scales of each shaft separate and hair dries out, robbing it of much needed moisture and leaving it looking dull and frizzy. Dry hair is also very fragile and as always it is important to select the correct brush for your hair type to avoid further damage and eventual breakage.
Oily Hair
Teens often complain about greasy hair. The problem is caused by sebaceous glands becoming over active, and producing more oil than needed. Frequent washing will not do any harm providing the hair is treated gently when wet. Wet hair can stretch, making it more vulnerable to breakage or cuticle damage; so use a wide spaced detangling brush (AirHedz 3, AirHedz 4). It is especially important to keep hair fringes clean to avoid clogging facial pores and causing spots.
Split Ends
Split ends have a mention on their own but of course are really related to dry hair. They are a common complaint and we are often asked how to combat them. Trichoptlosis or split ends occur when the protective cuticle is stripped away from the ends of the hair. They are more common when hair is dry or brittle. The individual hair splits into two or three strands and cannot be mended, so the only answer is to cut them off and concentrate on trying to prevent them. Never brush wet hair with a bristle brush, as the swollen strands are vulnerable and at their weakest; instead use wide spaced quill brushes or wide tooth combs. (AirHedz 3, AirHedz 4)
Cut down on the use of dryers, straightening irons and tongs and protect from the sun. Buy a bristle hair brush that will not pull on your hair and ultimately break it off, thereby causing a possible split end. Use sunscreen and conditioner in your hair.
Afro Hair
Afro hair has an irregular diameter along the length of each hair shaft and it is this that makes the hair vulnerable to breakage. The shape of the strands resembles a twisted oval rod. These twists are uneven in direction and thickness, which gives the hair less tensile strength.
It is also extremely curly with less moisture than Caucasian hair. Chemical and heat treatments add to problems of brittleness and subsequent breakage so any brush used must be gentle to avoid unnecessary tugging (AirHedz 3, AirHedz 4, AirHedz glo1, AirHedz glo2, KS50). The hair can be difficult to comb, so only use a hand sawn one with wide spaces between the rounded teeth for smoothness which will avoid further damage.
To summarise
In short, Kent recommendations are to consider and establish your hair type, and what condition your hair is presently in. Decide and treat yourself to a selection of hair brushes suited to your hair type, styling needs and budget, and use these alongside the appropriate hair products. Treat your hair with respect, don’t twist and tug it, only wear thick covered hair elastics and accessories with covered springs and clips that cannot snag and break hair. Sleep on a satin pillow to minimise tangles and wear a swimming cap in highly chlorinated pools. Finally, remember that over-drying and over-dyeing are the worst culprits for hair damage, ask any reputable salon for product advice.
